‘Persia.’ [‎8r] (20/48)

7
tons; in 1874, it had dropped to 300 tons, and two years later being a bad year,
the outturn was only 10 tons. The public sales of silk which formerly realized
7 millions sterling, now only touch £150,000. The annual product of Persian
silk is now only one-seventh of what it was in the middle of the 17th cen
tury. The average price is three times greater than it was then, but only one-
fourth of what it was when the English held the silk monopoly of Ghilan. In
the coast districts the silk is collected in May. Under the influence which
Russia possesses, great endeavours will he made to restore this industry to
something like its former magnitude. Fraser in 1882 stated that the average
silk production of Ghilan was £730,000 a year, of which one-third was con
sumed locally, one-third by Russia" and one-third by Turkey.* All the coast
district north of Elburz range is said to be carboniferous. Ghilan and
Mazandaran correspond with the ancient Hyrcania.f
28th October, Friday. — Woke at 3 a.m. ; heavy rain, breakfasted with Mon
sieur Ylassow, and all ready by 4, the hour at which the horses were ordered.
Started at 6 a.m., in heavy rain. The guide and the servant with the kit on
horseback, while the carriage took me the first stage to Kodoom by 10 a.m.
The road was fairly good (Photograph No. 7F), cobbled in some places, and
staked and bound at the sides. The scenery is not unlike that in the Concan.
At Kodoom began the first real ride when the party was tout d fait com-
plet with 3 nags. One horse, generally the best, has a pack or post saddle of
stuffed felt and straw for the guide or djiggit chappar; he takes the two Glad
stone bags in the large kurjin with the shawl, and his load will be about 2441b
in all. The second is for the servant or courier with a native bridle and 2 or 3
folds of numdah under the native saddle ; his own kit and the provisions in the
small kurjin will be about 1861b. The third nag, a shaky looking beast, but
declared to be fast, sure footed, “ the pride of the stable,” is for the master.
His load, with ulster, saddle, holsters, small bag, &c., will be 2201b. Between
Kodoom and Rustemabad road begins to ascend. Heavy rain. Mules, donkeys,
camels, crowds, and the road infernal; all up and down crossing every nose and
promontory that ran into the river (Safed). My grey gave in and fell on his
knees, so changed with Nasr-ullah; the valley is prettily wooded, but the rain
is so heavy that very little can be seen.
At Rustemabad the forests end. Secured a nice chestnut galloway and rode
him to Menzil in 5 hours. The route follows a gorge and is continually
going up or down. Three arches of the bridge at Menzil washed away ; a tem
porary bridge built (see Photograph No. 7G). The Valley of the Winds. If your
horse does not tumble through the sticks, he will probably be blown over with
his rider. Arrived at the chapparkhanah at 9 p.m. Went into a nice room
up stairs furnished with tables and chairs. Made some soup and turned in.
29th October, Saturday. —From Menzil the road ascends along the right
b^nk of the Shahrud. Arrived at Pachinar at 9-30 a.m. Valley much more
open. Hills very fine and of varied colours. Heavy clouds after the storm. The
road is up hill almost the whole way, and the view of the plains of Persia from
just above Mesreh 8,000, at Kasran, is good ; Kasvin discernible. Arrived at
Mesreh at 2-30 p.m. No horses in the chapparkhana, so shall have to ride the
same horses on. Started at 5 p.m., lovely moonlight, and rode on. Very good
going all the way. At Agababa the servant’s horse gave in, and at last land
the guide w 7 ent on, arranging to send a horse back from Kasvin. Got to Kasvin
at 10 p.m., city gates locked, got through, rode on to chapparkhana, a large
building in a garden in the middle of a great avenue. Flowers, bushes and
water with large stable for horses. Made tea and went to hed. Nusr-ullah
came in at 2 a.m.
30th October, Sunday. —Kasvin (40,000) is said to have been founded by
Shapur, the conqueror of Valerian. It was the capital for about 40 years before
the principal seat of government was transferred to Ispahan in 1586 (see Pho
tograph No. 7 H). Hills to the north snowcladhere and there (see Photograph
No. 7 J), also a range to the south. The Shimran is a part of the Elburz range
* For some interesting particulars of this silk trade, read Benjamin, pages 414—422.
f Plutarch says that when Alexander passed into Hyrcania with the flower of his army he took a view of
the Caspian sea, which appeared to him not less than the Euxine, but its water was of a sweeter taste.