‘Persia.’ [‎7v] (19/48)

agility and the condition of the nag that carries him will progress differently.
Anyhow, for heavy men a ride of 50 miles on 2 nags from Teheran to Pik, in
cluding a somersault, horse and all, near Robat Kearim in 10 hours, is fair.
Pifty-seven miles with a second fall near Sinsin on 3 nags in the same time
is also fair; while 78 miles on 4 nags in 12 hours makes a fair average of 6 ^
miles an hour right through. The longest stage on one horse was 29 miles,
but there are others of 28, 27, 24, &c., and for staging in any country these
distances are too long. Many of the nags were in poor condition, and for the
most part with sore-backs making riding rather a ricketty performance parti
cularly at the outset and at the finish of each stage. But in travelling, it is
these little inconveniences which, like fleas in a dog, afford something to think
of.
Column VII gives the height above the sea of different stations ; there is a
steep approach from both seas to what may he called the elevated plateau of
Persia; but from Kashan southwards to the Gulf the soldiers’ remark on the
march in Abyssinia will aptly apply—“ If this is what they call a table-land,
we can only be moving up and down the legs.” Take from Pachinar to Mesreh
a simple rise of 7,000 feet straight on end in 20 miles. Kashan to Kohrud is
another ascending ride, while from Shiraz to Daliki it is so up and down that
mules are in use instead of horses.
Column VIII gives the prices payable to the contractors with the recog
nised fees.
Column IX gives the extras which not only represent the trail of the
traveller, but the circumstance which travels with him and helps to pave the
way. The amount however is very small, but it should not on any account be
omitted, for it is distinctly a boon to poor men; if given openly it will pro
bably be appropriated by the chapparchi or headman as his perquisite.
Column X gives the nature of the conveyance. There was a small carriage
for one horse between Resht and Kodoom. There are carriages with three
horses from Kasvin to Teheran. The spring phaeton which I failed to recog
nise before I saw it, by its local name of “Pitoon,” was in such a critical state
with its drooping springs, that it was rejected for the Tarantass, a Russian
carriage without springs. Travelling in Persia, a country very much as nature
left it, is therefore generally on horseback, “ chapparing,” i.e., riding light, and as
fast as you can for three or more stages daily, or “ caravaningwhen you proceed
more leisurely by one stage a day with baggage mules. The charge for “ chap-
paring ” is one kran per farsakh per horse, or rather less than two pence a
mile for each horse, and the rate for “ caravaning ” is probably the same for
each mule.
The first thing necessary is to secure the pndoroshna or Post Office permit
for the horses. This paper (for which there is either a fee or for which you
are supposed to pay a small present) gives the route, the stages and the number
of bor es required and the price to be paid at each stage. Payment usuallv
is made at the end of each stage when the nags for the next stage are brought
out ready saddled.
The trade of Enselli and Resht with Russia has increased fourfold since
transit dues were levied on foreign merchandise via Caucasus. Foreign (not
Russian) trade comes by Erzeroum, &c., and takes longer, but this route necessi
tates entry through a Turkish port (Trebizond) and transit through foreign terri
tory. Russia sends immense quantities of sugar, piece-goods, silks, &c., and no
English goods are obtainable. Samples of English piece-goods were bought up
and copied at Moscow for the trade with Persia.* Rock-salt in bazar from
Chelikan Island. Revenue of Ghilan is paid to the Shah chiefly from rice and
silk. Mulberry-trees growing everywhere ; the Shah farms each province out
to a Governor. The Governors have full Civil, Military, Administrative and
Judicial pow r ers, and these are exercised directly by local Subordinates in the
position of Governors of towns, Mayors, Superintendents of Police, and Chiefs
of Districts. I understood that 3 million krans or £7,500 was the price at
which Ghilan was let. Forty years ago the product of raw silk was over 500
* Consul General Abbott says howevei - that in Khorassan a decided preference is given to prints manu
factured at Manchester.