‘GAZETTEER OF PERSIA VOL. I Comprising the Provinces of ASTARÁBÁD, SHÁHRUD-BÚSTAN, KHÚRÁSÁN, AND SÍSTÁN’ [‎128r] (260/722)

the centre of the plateau, where the stream enters a deep, rocky gorge, and
flows nearly north between precipitous banks to the northern wall of
enclosing heights, through which it passes by a gap similar to that of
Arghun Shah, known as the Darband-i-Naft. Thence it winds through
a maze of low hills to the Atak, where its waters irrigate the ricefields of
Chardih. The stream, where it flows through the Kalat, is clear and bright ;
but its water is said by the natives to be impregnated from its source with
naphtha. From this or some other cause,—possibly from the malaria that
it generates in its passage through a low, narrow, pent-up valley with a
good deal of irrigated land,—it certainly has a most marked deleterious
effect on the health of all, save the natives, living within its influence. A
detachment of the Kasvm regiment, which consists of Turks, usually
florid and kealthy-looking, turned out a pale and fever-stricken band,
completely divested of all traces of soldierly bearing. The natives also
suffer from fever ; but it has not the same debilitating effect on them.
The principal elevation within the circuit of the plateau is the Kuh
Khisht in the north-west corner, which has an
plateau! Pa e tvatlon m 118 elevation above the valley of 1,500 feet and an
absolute height of 4,000 feet. It, together with
the whole of the plateau in that direction, is formed of chalk filled
with marine shells, known as c gryphcea/ The strata form a bed of about
4,000 feet in thickness ; and each in succession downward increases in
density, the lower attaining the appearance and texture of hard, shelly
limestone. The Kuh KaraTava lies above the Darband-i-Naft, supporting
a portion of the northern cliffs and rising high above them ; and the
Kuh-i-Sar-i-Zar in the extreme east. The elevation of the two last cannot
be less than 5,000 feet ; and their formation does not differ from that of
other portions of the plateau. On the south side of the stream is a remark
ably rugged peak rising about 1,000 feet above the valley, formed of red
sandstone, with a cap of white limestone of about 150 feet in thickness.
It is a curious fact and worthy of note that, notwithstanding the evid
ences of volcanic action in violent distortions of strata and other abnormal
appearances of the formations of the plateau, there is nowhere any trace of
volcanic rock.
The whole circuit of the cliffs enclosing the Kalat plateau cannot be less
than from 50 to 60 miles. Their crests form a narrow ridge slightly
serrated, but still of almost uniform height. The interior slope falls away
in some places in a sharp inaccessible incline ; in others, in long easy
undulations reaching to the edges of the deep ravines, formed by the erosion
of the soft rocks that seam the plateau in every direction.
Besides the Darband-i-Arghun Shah and the Darband-i-Naft, by which
the stream enters and leaves the plateau, and
which are practicable for artillery, there are three
other gates practicable for horsemen,—the “ Darband-i-Chubast,” the
“ Darband-i-Kushtani,^ and the “ Darband-i-Dehcha,”—at each of which a
guard of 100 infantry is stationed as a precaution against surprise by the
Turkumans.
Besides these, there are at least four paths, which are just practicable
for infantry, viz .,—
(1) at a little to the right of where the road from Wardih first comes
under the cliffs and turns towards Arghawan :
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