‘GAZETTEER OF PERSIA VOL. I Comprising the Provinces of ASTARÁBÁD, SHÁHRUD-BÚSTAN, KHÚRÁSÁN, AND SÍSTÁN’ [‎25r] (54/722)

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It is divided, into three quarters, and contains about 1,200 inhabited houses and
about 8,000 inhabitants, these are built with mud or sun-dried bricks
of a light open style of architecture, with projecting fronts and sloping roofs
covered with red tiles or thatch. Many of them have small gardens filled
with orange, pomegranate, cherry, and other fruit trees; and the tops of the
walls being planted with roses, gilliflowers, and stocks for protection from
the rain, the place in spring has a very cheerful and pleasing appearance.
Astarabad has three gates; the Shahrud gate to the south; that of Chihal
Dukhtar or Forty Virgins (so-called from a raid made by the Turkmans in
which 40 maidens were captured)_ to the north; and the Mazandaran to
the west; on which side, too, there is a ridge running out for | mile to an
eminence some 200 feet high, which has once been fortified and looks as if
made for an acropolis. Astarabad possesses some ten or twelve f madrasas'
and eight or nine of those reservoirs for cooling water called “ ab ambars^ or
“ sard-absA The town is inhabited by the natives of the province, among
whom may be reckoned 400 families of the Kajar tribe, the reigning family
of Persia; but here, as in all Asiatic towns, it is impossible to form a
just idea of the population ; as the number of individuals composing a
family differs widely, according to the rank and consideration of its head.
During the winter the weather is generally mild, though damp and
unhealthy, but the heat in summer becomes intense; and at that season the
governor with about 200 of the richer inhabitants retire to their summer
iiouses, situated among the mountains on one of the roads to Tehran.
There are three caravanserais adjoining the bazars, which are about the
extent of those of Sari, and exhibit the same kind of merchandise; though
the shops are not so well furnished, nor is there an appearance of equal
activity. They are meanly built and in some places in ruins. The streets
were all originally paved, probably by Shah Abbas when he made the cause
way ; and though they have doubtless been occasionally repaired, the present
condition of the principal thoroughfare is very dilapidated. They are
partly broken up; and the channels by which the water used to run off being
thus interrupted, pools are formed which become larger every day by the
loosening of the adjacent stones. Some of the less frequented streets are in
better order, and the paving is sound, though uneven. There are neither
ancient nor modern buildings of any interest. The palace of the governor
consists of several audience halls and other apartments; the principal of
which, though now spoilt and half in ruins, was once yearly decorated with
gilding and paintings. There are also two or three large square courts, and
a private garden. In one of the gateways of the former the artillery of the
town is kept, consisting of eight small brass field pieces of different calibre.
There are thirteen soap boiling factories of considerable size that could
readily be utilized for military stores. The telegraph office and the gov
ernors residence would make good hospitals. The Masjid-i-Juma is large
and has wide cloisters, and barrack accommodation might be obtained there.
The defences, although in their present state useless, as horsemen can ride
over the rampart in several places and infantry could scramble through
almost every where, could however speedily be put into proper order.
The town is overlooked by the Sar-i-Gul hill to the west, and the ridge
of this would have to be occupied by a small redoubt; water being obtained
from the stream that flows at its foot. Works would also be required
on the hills within rifle short of the enceinte on the south side in order to
modernize the defences.