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'"NO MEDALS THIS TIME" by Sir Tom Hickinbotham, KCMG, KCVO, CIE, OBE' [‎53r] (105/336)

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The record is made up of 1 volume (168 folios). It was created in 1982?. It was written in English. The original is part of the British Library: India Office The department of the British Government to which the Government of India reported between 1858 and 1947. The successor to the Court of Directors. Records and Private Papers Documents collected in a private capacity. .

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.*51
that sane night and the next drove over the range of the Lebanon hills and
dovrn to Beirut on the shores of the Mediterranean.
In Beirut we stayed in the ’’Hotel Ba^ .oul”, which still flourishes, and took
stock of our financial position which did not take very long. We were both
of us very nearly destitute. In fact, we had just enough left for a second-
class steamer fare to Marseilles and thence by rail to London. In Beirut we
parted from our very kind companions who were taking the car to the Flat
works in Italy to be overhauled, and set sail in the blunt end of a
Messageries Marltimes ship. I spent most mornings on that short voyage
playing draughts with the Sudanese chauffeur of a wealthy Egyptian in the
first-class and as a result of those sessions I am still prepared to take on
all comers at that game. Of the sheer misery of second-class travel on the
French railway system I shall say nothing. The train journey was as dis
agreeable as only such journeys can be and the cross-channel steamer was no
better. The Customs in England were kind to the two dirty, dishevelled way
farers who produced their two battered suitcases and joint roll of bedding.
I say dirty advisedly. Bill and I were both wearing tennis shirts that had
once, long ago, been white the right side out for the second time. I
I did not think that we had done anything out of the ordinary until ten
years later when I met a Judge in the Indian Civil Service who had done the
same journey the previous year and written a book about it. He thought he
was the first; I was almost sorry to disabuse him of that fond belief.

About this item

Content

This volume is a set of typewritten memoirs by Sir Tom Hickinbotham, a retired officer of the British Indian Army and the Indian Political Service The branch of the British Government of India with responsibility for managing political relations between British-ruled India and its surrounding states, and by extension the Gulf, during the period 1937-47. . Hickinbotham held various positions in India and in the Middle East, and these memoirs recount stories from his time in Kuwait, Oman, Saudi Arabia, Quetta, Persia [Iran], Aden, Audhali, Bahrain and North Waziristan.

The memoirs were most likely completed in 1982-83; they cover the period 1927-1982, although most of the chapters relate to events from the 1930s and 1940s.

Hickinbotham writes not only about his official duties but also about various trips taken during periods of leave. Below is a list of the chapters, with a short summary of each:

  • 'No Medals This Time' (ff 3-6) – details of an incident in Kuwait involving a dhow A term adopted by British officials to refer to local sailing vessels in the western Indian Ocean. that caught fire off the foreshore at Shuwaik [Ash Shuwaykh]
  • 'The Silver Coin' (ff 7-10) – thoughts on the use of the Maria Theresa thaler in Arabia
  • 'The Golden Dagger' (ff 11-36) – an account of Hickinbotham's unofficial visit to Riyadh to meet Ibn Saud [‘Abd al-‘Azīz bin ‘Abd al-Raḥmān bin Fayṣal Āl Sa‘ūd] in May 1942
  • 'The Brass Pencase' (ff 37-53) – memories of a journey undertaken from Quetta to Europe via north Persia in 1927, travelling in a Fiat Tourer with Colonel T Nisbet (also referred to as the 'purple emperor'), on what Hickinbotham claims to have been the first trip taken by car from India to the Mediterranean
  • 'The Bronze Boy' (ff 54-72) – reminiscences of weekends spent in 'Little Aden' (a rocky peninsula seven miles west of Aden), in 1938, and a later visit, in December 1961
  • 'The Silver Letter Case' (ff 73-118) – details of a ten-day trip on the Audhali plateau in the summer of 1938, and a return visit, in December 1960 (the chapter ends with remarks on the situation in Yemen generally from the late sixties to the time of writing, i.e. 1982)
  • 'The Agate Ring' (ff 119-144) – memories of travelling in Oman during the summer of 1940 and how this compared with Hickinbotham's last visit to the country in 1980
  • 'The Pearl Tie Pin' (ff 145-151) – thoughts and anecdotes on the pearl trade in Bahrain
  • 'A Point of View' (ff 152-157) – a story told to Hickinbotham, possibly fictional, of a pearl trader in the Gulf who lost his fortune and livelihood, and eventually his sanity
  • 'Snakes Alive!!' (ff 158-161) – an account of a near-fatal encounter with a krite [krait] in Waziristan
  • 'The Queen's Visit' (ff 162-168) – memories of the Queen's visit to the Aden Protectorate in 1954, where Hickinbotham was serving as Governor.
Extent and format
1 volume (168 folios)
Arrangement

The volume contains an index of chapter headings on folio 2, which includes some handwritten corrections and annotations.

Physical characteristics

Foliation: the foliation sequence (used for referencing) commences at the first folio with 1, and terminates at the last folio with 168; these numbers are written in pencil, are circled, and are located in the top right corner of the recto The front of a sheet of paper or leaf, often abbreviated to 'r'. side of each folio. An additional mixed foliation/pagination sequence is also present in parallel between ff 3-168.

Condition: The original plastic comb binding ring has been replaced with a wider one to facilitate flat opening of the volume. Polyester film covers have been added to protect the first and last folios.

Written in
English in Latin script
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'"NO MEDALS THIS TIME" by Sir Tom Hickinbotham, KCMG, KCVO, CIE, OBE' [‎53r] (105/336), British Library: India Office Records and Private Papers, Mss Eur F226/13, in Qatar Digital Library <https://www.qdl.qa/archive/81055/vdc_100094411638.0x00006a> [accessed 17 June 2026]

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