Notes Prepared for Reference during Curzon’s Tour of the Persian Gulf, and Other Papers on Persia and the Persian Gulf [‎168r] (335/678)

10
Geo.—Sykes—Second Revise.
Continuing our journey, we rode up the banks of the Polvar, which
Yarthema A at the beginning of the sixteenth century mistook for the
Euphrates, and after spending a few hours at Pasargardse, we ascended
to Dehbid, from which place Barbaro branched off to Yezd. At this,
the most elevated stati n in Persia, I enjoyed the hospitality of
Mr. Jefferies, and was . iven an account of the siege sustained at
the time of the Shah’s ' atb, which would have ended badly for our
plucky fellow-countrynu"i and their heroic wives had not the nomads
omitted to cut the telegraph-line. The main postal road through
Peisia is certainly much more interesting than any other, while
supplies can always be obtained, so that, although the sun had by
no means lost its power, we much enjoyed the various stages. Abade,
famous for its sherbet spoons, is a really pretty village; while Yezdi-
khast, shaped like a steamer, and perched on an inaccessible cliff,
18 certainly one of man’s strangest habitations. On the confines of
Isfahan, I was met by the Adjutant-bashi of H.R.H. the Zib-i-Sultan,
and under his guidance we entered the ancient capital of Persia.
Isfahan has been so fully described that I will but mention that, in
my opinion, it is by far the most interesting city in Persia, while those
who are admitted to an interview with its royal governor can scarcely
fail to be struck by his bonhomie and urbanity.
The last week in September saw me bound for Nain, where I over
took Mr. Wood, whom I was fortunate enough to have as a companion
to Sistan, my destination. At Nain we struck a route that I had
travelled in 1894, but I was able to add to my knowledge, as I was
told that the fort was known as the Kala-i-Gtabr, and even the Eanats
had Parsi names. At Agda, a village of Seiids, the inhabitants claim
to be kinsmen of the Parsis, recently converted from the ancient
religion. This receives most interesting corroboration from Josafa
Baibaro, who, when travelling from Yezd to Kashan, wrote as follows :
“Twoo daies jorney further (sc. from Maibut) is a towne called
Guerde, in the which there dwell certein men called Abraini, which
in myne opinion either be descjnded of Abraham orells haue Abraham’s
faith, and they weare long heare.”f There is little doubt in my mind
that these Abraini—the word being probably a corruption of Gabr
were Zoroastrians, who, to mark their conversion to Mohammedanism,
were given the honorary title of Sejid, just as to-day the title of Mirza
is generally given.
In the neighbouring hills is situated a shrine in honour of the Banu,
or Queen of Pars. This lady was the mother of Yezdigird, and was
swallowed up by the earth when pursued by the Arabs. It is an
interesting fact to note that, until quite recently, cows were sacrificed
at this sanctuary, but the killing was done by Mohammedans, who also
ate the flesh.J Ardakan, t o, was formerly a great Parsi centre, and
the writings of the Dasturs of Turkabad are still preserved at Bombay.
Apparently they all became Mohammedans some sixty years ago, and
now Sharifabad is the only Parsi village in the district. Altogether,
this part of Persia preserves many traces of the Zoroastrian worship,
while dari, the old tongue, stated to be a corruption of darbari, or the
official language,§ is used, not only by the Parsis, but also by the
villagers and townspeople, as far as Kashan.
^ At Hujetabad, one stage from Yezd, Mr. Ferguson, of the Imperial
Lank of Persia, rode out to spend the night, and on the following
morning we entered Yezd, where we received a warm welcome from the
European colony. Continuing our journey, the section to Kerman was
also familiar country' to me, but, as I wished to show my companion
purpose, and, as it was certainly uncomfortable for the horse, it was, in my opinion,
either a ball o( iron thrown at an adversary, the chain bringing it back, or else it was'
swung round the head. All Persians to whom I have referred the question accept this
version, and many of them term it topuz, which is the ordinary word for mace. While
on this subject, it is interesting to note that the word chogan is still with us in the
shape of “ chicane.”
* Vide ‘ Ludovico di Yarthema,’ p. 101. Hakluyt Society.
f Travels of Venetians in Persia,’ p. 82. Hakluyt Society.
t The legend runs that the Banu was thirsty, and a peasant offered to milk his cow
for her, but that, when the operation was completed, the cow kicked over the pail, so
that the traveller had to continue her flight without quenching her thirst. The
sacrifice was apparently an act of retribution.
§ It may also be derived from dar, a gate. Of. the Sublime Porte.