'Persia and the Persian Question by the Hon. George Nathaniel Curzon, M.P.' [‎53] (84/714)

WAYS AND MEANS
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clearly beforehand what to take and what to leave behind, what to expect
and what to avoid.
It is useless to take out the usual European paraphernalia of port
manteaux, hatboxes, and trunks. They will merely have to be discarded
Chapar- on ^ ie wa y' or behind to follow at snail's pace after the
riding. owner -and be knocked to pieces in the process—by mule or
a o 0 a o e camel caravan. The first rule to be observed is that every
piece of baggage must be of such a size as can easily be suspended or
strapped to one side of a galloping horse ; the second, that, as far as
possible, the several pieces must correspond in size and weight. The
slightest inequality makes it very hard upon the horse, and necessitates
constant stoppages to readjust the load. I took out to Persia two
medium-sized Gladstone bags (measuring 22 inches in length by 14
inches in depth), and the agreement of other travellers with my own
experience leads me to recommend them as by far the best. When
you arrive in Persia you can buy in the bazaar of any Persian town, or
get manufactured in a day, a pair of large native saddle-bags or khurjins.
They are made of carpet and leather. Put your Gladstone bags, one
into each side, and throw the whole over the back of your postboy's
horse. The two sides will balance, and no trouble will ensue. As the
postboy does not use a saddle, but merely sits straddlewise upon the
top of whatever baggage may be strapped upon his animal, he can be
further made to carry bundles of rugs, coats, and bedding to almost
any extent. Your Persian servant, who must be engaged beforehand,
and without whom it would be foolish to travel, can carry upon his
horse a second pair of saddle-bags, in which can be stored any smaller
bags or articles, the cooking apparatus, and his own kit. Finally, in
the holsters and saddle-bags of your own mount you will carry the im
mediate necessaries of the journey—flask, money, pistol, requisites of
the toilette, books, (tc. In addition to my Gladstone bags, I took two
stout brown canvas bags, which I found most useful. They would hold
a great deal when filled; and yet, if not wanted, could be rolled up into
a very narrow compass. It will be obvious that the lighter a horse's
load the more quickly will the stage be accomplished.
As regards saddlery, the Persian saddle, which is small and high-
peaked, is so unlike anything that an Englishman has ever been
accustomed to ride upon that he will only suffer from making
Saddlery ^ experiment. He must take out a roomy English military
saddle, with holsters and saddle-bags, and plenty of rings or staples
fitted for straps, of which he will find that a good surplus supply will
be invaluable. In one of my holsters I carried a flask that held over a
quart bottle of spirits, and whose contents were ample for the require
ments of a journey of many hundred miles. The traveller is sometimes
so exhausted that he would be tempting Providence if he had not some