Coll 28/39(2) ‘Persia. Printed Correspondence, 1937–’ [‎9r] (17/320)

15
Enclosure 1.
Despatch from His Majesty’s Acting Consul, Isfahan, to His Majesty’s
Minister, Tehran, No. 97, dated the 20th October 1936.
I have the honour to transmit to you herewith a brief survey in general
ISFAHAN has always been known as one of the homes of conservatism in
Iran, and to the observer who has watched the progress in other parts of the
country of the dress and other social reforms introduced in recent years the
reputation appears still to be justified, although in the field of commerce
Isfahan is more advanced than anywhere else in the country.
2. Fortunately for the peace of mind of the inhabitants of Isfahan, the
Governor of the town and province for the last three years, Qasim Sur Israfil,
appears to be of that type, so rare in Iran nowadays, which has the wit to per
ceive to what extent a people of the character of the Isfahan! can be driven
without its objections taking any violent form. He has had the sense not
to seek to drive the Isfahan! beyond that point. He has had the good fortune,
too, to be able to a large extent to offset the undoubtedly slow progress of the
social reforms by the striking advances made by the town in commerce and
industry, and thus ward off any displeasure which the authorities in Tehran
may harbour against him.
3. To-day in Isfahan the old-fashioned wide cotton trouser of the work
man or peasant is still noticeable by its frequency, as is the little embroidered
skull cap which many men wear under their newly adopted brimmed mons
trosity. Even the tall pointed cap which can be seen in any picture or draw
ing of the 19th Century has not entirely disappeared. The long and elegant
frock-coat, which has almost disappeared in the north, is still the customary
attire of many men here. With the women it is the same, especially among
the poorer classes, where a hat is still conspicuous by its absence and black
trousers down to the ankle are usual rather than otherwise. Even the chadur
can be seen on occasion, though not often. It is said that the better class
Isfahan! women have not taken at all kindly to the reform of their dress decre
ed earlier in the year, and that many of the older ones now stay at home
sooner than go out unveiled. However this may be, it is certain that very
few women, except Armenians and other unbelievers, are to be seen about
the streets in western dress. The evening crowd in the Chahar Bagh Avenue
is almost entirely composed of men, although army officers are to be seen
out with their wives occasionally.
4. Mullahs in turban and abba are still numerous, although a few
may have accepted, or been dragooned into accepting, the change into Euro
pean dress. The number of men to be seen saying their prayers by the road
side or in the fields is also striking after the relative irreligion of other parts
of Iran, and especially as the Shia, as opposed to the Sunni Moslem, does
not profess to make a great business of his daily prayers.
5. Compared with the Shirazi, known for his laziness and love of arrack,
the Isfahan! looks a far healthier fellow and better built. He is harder work
ing than most Iranians, and his thrift is witnessed by the ancient tale of the
Isfahani who always kept his cheese in a glass vessel in order to be able to
get its flavour simply by rubbing his bread on the outside of the glass and
thereby avoid using up the cheese. The relative wealth of the town is
shown by the fact that the local branch of the Imperial Bank of Iran, which
was formerly dependent very largely upon its foreign exchange business for
profitable working, is now so busy with local and internal business that it
can forget the competition of the rival Bank Mellie and would have to
increase its staff were its business to increase very much.
&
terms of the political situation in Isfahan as it has appeared to me during my
stay here.
Enclosure 2.
Report on Political Conditions in Isfahan, October 1936.