'THIM DAYS IS GONE' [‎53r] (105/248)

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'Jewel of Joy'?, wife
learning) principally that of Gauhar Sh"ad
of Shah Rukh the mongol Emperor. All had either domes of gold or
exquisite azure tiles. In the centre of one immense courtyard
stands a decrepit hovel known .as the manzi1 -i-pir-i-zan or the
old woman's house. The legend is thaf'she refused to sell her
home inspite of magnificent offers and no doubt, every sort of
pressure from the powers that were. It was cherished as a symbol
of the justice, tolerance and humanity of those times. Qualities
that were notable for their absence under the regime of Riza
o n 3 n •
Indeed the Shah's hand lay heavy on the Holy City.
Khomeini - style clothing was not tolerated except within the
mosques. Turbans were out. I saw a policeman tear the chadur
(the flowered sheet in which they veiled themselves) from a “woman
in the street. This conduct would have caused a major riot in
India. Some older ladies never left their homes from the day the
order was promulgated because they could not bear to be seen
unveiled. Others, mainly younger, who were prepared to go along
with this sudden projection into western mores were unclear as to
the etiquette required and, for a time, took their hats off to
each other on meeting! It is not generally appreciated in the
west that the veil - ordained to protect the modesty of women -
in fact works to exactly the opposite effect. Any veiled woman
is unrecognisable even to her husband or brother from a foot or
so away; she can dive into side-alleys and duck into dark
doorways without ever being recognised, there to keep who knows
what amorous, extra-marital engagements - and a great many do.
Or , let us say, out of consideration for the present clerical
regime, did.
Even the gentle, peaceful villagers did not escape the Western
wind. Their dignified traditional dress of a domed felt hat and
long gown, crossed in front and belted with a sash ’ was
considered too oriental. So the police at the post they had to
pass on entering the town would knock off their hats and cut off
their long coats at mid-thigh. Thus making them, in theory look
more western, but in fact, slightly ridiculous and very unhappy.
But the most outrageous humiliation inflicted on the forces of
reaction was the opening of the shrine to unbelievers
Previously the street and alleys leading to the shrine were
barred by heavy iron chains at some distance from the holy
precincts, marking the limit beyond which no unbeliever might
proceed on pain of death. Not only were these removed, but
unbelievers (and their cameras) were allowed into the shrine, and
even into the Holy of Holies where the faithful writhed in
paroxysms of grief clutching the gold railings of the sacred
There the police would drive back the worshippers and invite the
infidels to take photographs.