'A second journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, between the years 1810 and 1816. With a journal of the voyage by the Brazils and Bombay to the Persian Gulf. Together with an account of the proceedings of His Majesty's embassy under Sir Gore Ouseley, Bart. K.L.S. With two maps, and engravings from the designs of the author.' [‎398] (471/516)

898
KARS.
After having travelled all day in the snow, we at length discovered
the town of Kars, at a considerable distance before we reached it. It
is situated on and about a most picturesque rock, and is watered by a
very considerable river, over which there are some substantial bridges.
The castle, which is built on the summit of the rock, with its castellated
walls, winding about in various directions, is defended by six guns, of
small calibre. These were fired on the day we arrived, which happened
to be the festival of the Beyram. The houses are all built of stone,
strong as castles, and are lighted by little peep-holes, on account of
the excessive cold. I was lodged at an Armenian dyer's, in a large and
substantial stone house, containing five or six rooms, besides store
houses, kitchen, &c., which he told me he had bought for 1000
Turkish piastres, (about ^40,) but which he could not build for 3000.
The women's apartments, including the kitchen, and in which indeed
the whole family appeared to live, were lighted by an aperture from the
ceiling.
Kars is the seat of a Pasha An Ottoman title used after the names of certain provincial governors, high-ranking officials and military commanders. of three tails, who keeps up little state,
as the appointment in so remote a part of the empire is not much re
lished by the Turkish employes; and consequently, living in the hope
of being appointed to another government, they do not go to great
expense in their establishment.
On the 12th we departed from Kars, and stopped at Deli Ahmed for
the night, although the regular post is at Javlak. The weather con
tinued extremely cold; and as long as we were exposed to the air,
every hair of our mustachios was distended into a stiffened icicle, and
whatever was moistened by the breath immediately became ice. On
the 13th we crossed the Savanlou Dagh, a long straggling mountain,
covered with fir-trees, which supply all the surrounding country with
fuel and timber. It is famous for being the retreat of the Courdish
robbers, who, in the summer when they and their cattle can live under
the trees and on the pasturages, are constantly on the look-out for
travellers or caravans. They have, however, of late been kept in awe,
by the severity of Baba Pasha An Ottoman title used after the names of certain provincial governors, high-ranking officials and military commanders. .