'A second journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, between the years 1810 and 1816. With a journal of the voyage by the Brazils and Bombay to the Persian Gulf. Together with an account of the proceedings of His Majesty's embassy under Sir Gore Ouseley, Bart. K.L.S. With two maps, and engravings from the designs of the author.' [‎77] (114/516)

MISERY OF THE PEASANTRY.
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Ha-oos Dalauk, or barbers' bason. It was quite amusing to hear the
ignorant Persians, with the most impudent gravity, settle the whole
economy of Jemsheed's household as if they had had posts in it, and
decide upon localities of the ruins as if they had been consulted in the
distribution of the apartments. The persons to whom I applied the
most for information were the shepherds, who lead their flocks into all
parts of the country, and see more of it than any other men. They
also told me, that except the Takht they knew of no other remains. I
was as unfortunate in my researches after coins and gems as I had been
in my discoveries of ruins. Wherever I went, my first question was,
" Have you any old coins ?" and I took great pains to publish in all
parts of the country, particularly amongst the wandering tribes, that I
would give new coin for old, whenever it might be brought to me. But
it was all in vain: the most I got were some very miserable copper
Cuffic dinars; and I can only ascribe this scarcity of antique metals, in a
place where they ought to be found at almost every turn of the spade,
to the extreme poverty of the people. No sooner do they get posses
sion of any thing that is silver, than it is converted immediately into
food or clothing. It is impossible to see the situation of the wretched,
destitute peasantry of this country, without feeling compassion at their
lot, and execrating the tyranny of their governors.
I made an attempt to pierce into the great subterranean passages
that traverse the ground on which Persepolis is built, and of which
Chardin has given so full an account; but I was not more successful
than he seems to have been in his first trial. I had several people with
me with candles and lanterns, but we found ourselves stopped short by
a very narrow passage, after having walked some forty paces upright.
We then crept through this on our hands and knees, and again came
to a higher part. Again we proceeded, and then were obliged to
crawl on our bellies, until there was only room to put one s head
through, when we thought it time to return. This is so much like
Chardin's account of his first adventure in the dark passages, that I am
inclined to think we did penance on our bellies somewhere on the very
same spot. Of this I am certain, that it is not the famous passage in