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CHAP. XI.] DIET, AND HOUSES. 241
trays are transferred to the attendants, and warm water is
again carried round. Kailiuns, coffee or tea (the latter rarely),
are then brought in, and renewed at intervals: but occasion-
ally, when the number of guests is limited, the forbidden
pleasures of opium, wine, and spirits are enjoyed. 1 The ordi
nary townspeople, however, have, as may be supposed, less
tempting fare, and the inferior shopkeepers are wont to supply
themselves from the kabob, or cook-shops in the bazaars.
Although poultry and meat are not by any means scarce, Dietin general,
the chief part of the diet in Persia is of a much lighter de
scription. It consists of eggs, boiled rice, or wheat prepared in
the same manner, bread, hard cheese, koroot, 2 clarified butter,
and coagulated milk in the state called mast. The latter is
boiled, without taking away the butter, and then by adding
to the new milk, when cold, either some rennet, or a por
tion of the old stock (Mayal), a slightly acid but agreeable
beverage is produced, particularly for summer. It seems to
agree admirably with the Persians ; and that it has continued
to do so for ages is sufficiently clear, by the fact that Pliny
mentions it, with an observation that it was in use before the
sowing of corn was known. 3
The cottages of the poor are built either of earth, or of Cottages,
layers of bricks, usually unburnt, and cemented with mud,
mixed with chopped straw; and they seldom contain more
than two small rooms. The roofs are terraced on beams,
when wood is to be had ; but at other times, four or more low
brick domes cover the building. In general, there are two
or three small out-houses, built in the same manner, for
cattle, grain, and implements of husbandry, the whole being
well inclosed, and having only one small, low entrance-door
into the court.
The houses of the rich are likewise surrounded by a high Dwellings of
."l 0 the superior
dead wall, inclosing different sets of apartments, built round classes,
as many separate courts or little gardens, which generally
1 " When I took leave, the MuM filled ray baracho with very good wine."
—Tavernier's Persian Travels, p. 44.
* Another preparation of mast, which being dried in the sun and rolled into
thin wafers, will keep throughout a distant pilgrimage. 8 Lib. VII. c. Ivi.
VOL. I. ^ 1