'Travels in Assyria, Media, and Persia, including a journey from Bagdad by Mount Zagros, to Hamadan, the ancient Ecbatana, researches in Ispahan and the ruins of Persepolis, and journey from thence by Shiraz and Shapoor to the sea-shore. Description of Bussorah, Bushire, Bahrein, Ormuz, and Muscat, narrative of an expedition against the pirates of the Persian Gulf, with illustrations of the voyage of Nearchus, and passage by the Arabian Sea to Bombay.' [‎262] (293/582)

262
APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY—VILLAGE OF MOAYN.
steep cliffy mountains on each side, on the summits of which small
gardens were still seen. On each side of our path below, we saw
flocks grazing; an abundance of wood, though chiefly small, and
of a kind only fit for fuel, but affording a great charm after
the bare country we had come through; while a beautifully
clear stream meandered along the centre of the valley in the
direction of our way, and numerous singing-birds, the voice of
which we had not lately heard, saluted us with their early notes.
The scenery was exceedingly like some parts of Lebanon, and the
air was just that of a Syrian spring.
In about two hours we alighted near a mill, turned by the
stream we had just passed; and refreshed ourselves by a halt,
reposing both ourselves and horses on the grass turf, beneath
the shade of trees. Along the banks of this stream were osiers,
willows, date-trees, and briars, bearing the common blackberry of
Europe ; romantic rocks were seen in several points of view, and
the voice of the thrush still charmed us with its rich melody.
From hence we went south-westerly, and in two hours more
we reached the station of Moayn, distant from Imaum Zade three
fursucks. This village, which was large, and surrounded with
gardens, was also seated in a close valley, and had an agreeable
appearance. We found here a large caravan of mules from
Shiraz, halting in the open air; but we took shelter ourselves in
a half-ruined caravansera, not entirely abandoned.
We had already received instructions about our road to Perse-
polis, or Takht e Jemsheed, as we had always heard it yet called,
from our friend Shuker Ullah Khan; but we enquired here for
confirmation, and received the same directions.
Throughout all Persia, but more particularly here in Fars,
a custom prevails of giving the salute 6 Salam Alaikom,' when
ever the first lighted lamp or candle is brought into the room
in the evening; and this is done between servants and mas
ters as well as between equals. As this is not practised in any
other Mohammedan country, it is probably a relic of the ancient