'Travels in Assyria, Media, and Persia, including a journey from Bagdad by Mount Zagros, to Hamadan, the ancient Ecbatana, researches in Ispahan and the ruins of Persepolis, and journey from thence by Shiraz and Shapoor to the sea-shore. Description of Bussorah, Bushire, Bahrein, Ormuz, and Muscat, narrative of an expedition against the pirates of the Persian Gulf, with illustrations of the voyage of Nearchus, and passage by the Arabian Sea to Bombay.' [‎221] (252/582)

ISPAHAN.
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who are considered a highly bigoted race, and more particularly
as to-day was the sabbath on which the mosques were crowded
both by them and the most devout of the laity. It was at length
determined on, that we should go as privately as possible; and
changing my dress for one of extreme poverty, with a pointed
Dervish cap on my head, a staff, and a long chaplet of green beads,
which I had brought with me from Jerusalem, made at the mosque
of Omar, on the site of Solomon's Temple there, I set out with
Ismael on this holy excursion.
We went first to the small mosque of Lootf Ali Khan, which
is in the centre of the east side of the Maidan Shah. This is
simply a square building, over which is raised a flattened dome,
without pillars, arched vaults, or aisles. The workmanship is
throughout of the best kind, both in the masonry and embellish
ments. Large blocks of Tabreez marble, highly polished, are
used at the entrance, and along the surbasement of the interior.
The gilding, enamel, and painting of the walls, and the ceiling of
the dome within, is equal to any of the halls of the palaces that
we had seen; and, small as it is, there is a great neatness and
beauty in the whole. The exterior front, the portals, and arch of
the door, and the outer surface of the dome, are all coated with
painted and enamelled tiles, in which azure blue is the prevailing
colour; and the inscriptions, with which the building is crowded
within and without, are chiefly in Cufic and in Arabic.
From the mosque of Lootf Ali Shah, as this personage is some
times called, from his having assumed the title of sovereignty
during his lifetime, we went to the great mosque, at the southern
end of the Maidan, which is dignified with the peculiar name of
the Mesjid Shah, or Royal Mosque. The lofty gate which forms
the outer entrance to this, and faces the centre of the public square,
has on each side of it a minaret, with open galleries at the top;
but though in any other situation these would be considered arge,
they look diminutive here, from the noble size and elevation o
the gateway, which they guard. This gateway leads to an mnei