'Travels in Assyria, Media, and Persia, including a journey from Bagdad by Mount Zagros, to Hamadan, the ancient Ecbatana, researches in Ispahan and the ruins of Persepolis, and journey from thence by Shiraz and Shapoor to the sea-shore. Description of Bussorah, Bushire, Bahrein, Ormuz, and Muscat, narrative of an expedition against the pirates of the Persian Gulf, with illustrations of the voyage of Nearchus, and passage by the Arabian Sea to Bombay.' [‎201] (232/582)

ISPAHAN.
201
buildings, between the khan of Noushirwan and the present
gate of the city through which we first entered. It thus lies on
the north-west of the present enclosed town, and has been fully
described, on our passing through it. The tradition still held by
the people is, that this was the original spot on which Ispahan was
founded; and that, even in the time of Shah Abbas, it was enclosed
within the city walls. Of this latter fact, there is however no
decided proof; on the contrary, there is much more reason to
believe that it was in a deserted state, even in Abulfeda's time,
and rather formed a suburb, than a quarter of the city.
Yahoudia is, as the Arabian geographer states, distant from
Gajjong about two miles, and is seated in the north-east quarter
of the town. It is the present residence of such Jews as are here,
though a large portion of it is also inhabited by Mohammedans.
The present residence of the Governor is in this quarter, called
also Jubarrah ; and here is seen a portion of the ancient walls of
the city, with high round towers, sloping upward from their base,
thickly placed, and more completely Saracenic than any similar
work that I had yet observed in Persia. This quarter, which
is now also in a very ruined state, contains the minarets and domes
of some fine old mosques, adorned with Cufic inscriptions, m
coloured tiles ; a large Maidan, or public square, now nearly built
all over with small dwellings, and lines of bazaars, and many other
marks of former magnificence. The style of the architecture, both
in the private and public dwellings, is of an older date than any
thing to be seen in the other parts of Ispahan; and the traditions
current among the people are, that this was a place of the Jews
settlement under Bochetenessr, (or Nebuchadnezzar,) and that it
is by far the oldest part of Ispahan which is now enclosed within
the city walls.
All this was extremely satisfactory, as confirming the conjec
ture of the able illustrator of ancient geography; but the living
picture it presented us was, in another point of view, full of the
most melancholy images. Nothing could exceed the misery and
2 d