'Through Persia on a side-saddle' [‎309] (352/360)

TEHRAN REVISITED 3 0 9
after having been fourteen hours on the road, and we were
glad to think that to-morrow's march was only some twelve
miles, over a good track for Persia, as both men and
beasts were worn out.
The next day we made a late start about 8.30 a.m., and
as the rain was falling we decided to ride our four farsakhs
straight on end, instead of making a mid-day halt for lunch.
It was a good thing we did not tarry, for half-way we
encountered a mild form of blizzard, the rain coming down
like a waterspout, while hailstones were driven into our
faces by such violent gusts of wind that our horses swerved
from them again and again. My waterproof cape was
soaked through, and nearly torn from my back by the fury
of the tempest, I was almost blinded with the hail, and if
my brother had not lashed at my steed with his hunting-
whip I scarcely know how I should have got the reluctant
creature along the road, which now seemed interminable.
It was indeed a relief to reach the chaparkhana at MenjU
and find a fire by which to warm ourselves, for we were
literally wet through, and had to wait two or three hours
before our caravan arrived with dry clothing.
I had had an idea that the difficulties of the Resht road
were somewhat exaggerated, but these two days had shown
me what it could be like in winter, and I have no wish to
repeat the experiences of this my third visit.
Two or three days later we had to make our way to
Rustemabad, over a dangerous track, resembling staircases
and even ' shoots' of rock in parts; but the chapar horses
are sagacious little animals, sliding down these places from
point to point, and very seldom coming to grief. However,
on this occasion the road was very slippery with yester
day's sleet, and we had to hold our ponies up most care-