'Military Report on South-West Persia, Including the Provinces of Khuzistan (Arabistan), Luristan, and Part of Fars' [‎320] (365/466)

320
their bread. The springs here were brackish. The view looking south and
west was very fine. On the left the Karun, deep down in precipitous gorges;
here and there are seen tributaries coming into it from the east, from the
Kashkai country, which country showed more open vales than that we were
in. Far away north-east is a snow-capped mountain, which it seems to me
must be the Kuh-i-Dina of the Kashkais. Looking south, the Euh-i-Man gash t,
with its long ridge, snow-capped and rugged, shows Us yet no way out for
us to the plains. On the right is Garreh, with its massive head frowning on
the JMdbar, which flows along its southern base. A few miles farther and we
are on the top of the almost precipitous cliff that forms the left bank of the
Altitude 6,725 feet. ^udbar stream. Here the view is very extraordinary.
The ridge or cliff on which we stand is of grey limestone,
which is set off by buff-coloured dead grass, and a peculiar kind of thistle
which fills every corner where the rock does not come to the surface, giving
the appearance of a buff plush carpet crumpled over the irregularities of the
mountain side. But the right bank is the most peculiar, consisting of a grey
limestone, and a hard rock with delicate hues of purple, violet, and grey
blended over its surface, deepening in the ravines, and set off in the most
charming way by the yellowish thistles which follow the lesser depress
sions. In the valley are masses of violet bluish marl which have apparently
slid down the smooth surface of the rock, and at their feet is the deep blue
river fringed with trees of lighter green than the oaks that hold every cleft
above. The whole scene is the most remarkable piece of nature's colouring
that I have ever seen. In the gorge we saw an oak 7 feet 4 inches in girth,
bearing acorns 3 inches in length [see pages 361, 362),
The descent into the Rudbar valley was abominable, nothing but mules
and carefully led Persian horses could accomplish it without accident. It
is quite as bad as the Kamaraj Kotal on the Bushire road, but fully twice as
long. A road here would indeed be difficult, and for wheel traffic impossible;
it remains to be seen whether such a road could be made further up the Rudbar
at Shalil, where there is said to be a bridore. The Rudbar was easily fordable,
150 feet in width arid 2| feet de^p; it is a rapid and picturesque stream.
We encamped on its banks. Altitude about 3,080 feet.
3 [a) The Gandum Kal valley is elevated 6,744 feet. Evenin July the nights
are cold, and at 4 a.m . the thermometer reads 54°. # Heavy snow falls in the
winter and blocks the road for four or five months, rendering it impassable to man
and beast. The road descends to an elevation of 6,364 feet; then ascends to 6,934
feet; crossing a valley it again ascends to 6,687 feet. The next descent is to the
Sarkun stream, elevated 5^66 feet, growing rice and wheat. From this valley
the road ascends steeply over the Gerrah-Kuh, which it crosses at an elevation of
7,333 feet. The last 4 miles into Shalil undulates over ridges respectively
elevated 6,972 feet, 6,706 feet, and 6,668 feet. The whole distance of 1TJ miles
presents considerable difficulties. For Mr. Schindler's description of the road to
the Rudbar or itb-i-Bazuft, see paragraph 4 [a),
* This does not agree with what Major Bell heard (see page 130).
De Bode as late as February (1841) met the Governor-in-Chief at KaPa-i-Madrasa, who with
all his following had penetrated thus far from Isfahan without inconvenience. The passes behind
him had become closed early in February, after he had passed through. He marched with 1 regi
ment of infantry, 1,000 well armed cavalry, and S field pieces (6-pounders)—in all 2,500 men and
3,000 horses and mules.
At Mal-i-Mir the Bakhtiari Chief had collected 5,000 men, with a numerous train of horse
men, well armed and mounted. Each man had three pistols, a matchlock, and a sabre.