'Military Report on South-West Persia, Including the Provinces of Khuzistan (Arabistan), Luristan, and Part of Fars' [‎318] (363/466)

318
below Dupulan the river of the'Tang-i-Siah fails into the Kuh-i-Rang river,
forming, as before stated, the second tributary on its left bank. The former
is spanned by a wicker bridge; the latter by one of brick lately built by the
Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. , at the point where the river emerges from a deep gloomy gorge. The
bridge is narrow but serviceable, and spans the stream in one large and one
small arch; length, say 20 yards.
Stage 2, November 11th. —Leaving Dupulan, where, by the way, the
Dupulan to Hillisat P eo P^ e seem wretchedly poor and supplies, except firewood,
19 miles, rough road, and are very scarce, we cross first the wicker and then the
trying from frequent as- brick bridge, and ascend the side of the mountain which
cents and descents. Di- a north-west spur of the Oarreh mountain. Our road
rection first south, then . , . ^ 1 , i i i t -i i t
5 miles south-east. 18 rough m places, tliongii, as a rule, good, and leads
Supplies of rice, but through thickish oak forest, with a steady ascent to an
^thingeise in the neigh- elevation of 7 ,850 feet, where we cross the water
shed, a saddle back between the Garreh and Arman
mountains, and descend by a steep track to some cultivated ground. The
forest here is of oaks, 40 feet high, and one and a half yards girth. Altitude
6 ,350 feet. From the patch of cultivation the descent is through a narrow
gorge with precipitous sides, which could easily be turned into a nasty obstacle
to an enemy. The road is rocky and goes downwards, but only to again rise
steeply to 6,600 feet, to again descend to 6,400, when it once more rises to
6,750; then, crossing the saddle of a spur ii'om the Arman mountain, it
* Altitude here 5,000 descends infco a gorge which leads down into the valley of
the Hillisat'* stream, which we followed to where the
Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. ^s camp was pitched on the left bank. Altitude 4,850 feet.
To-day^s road has not been difficult, but very tryingj the up and down
hill work on the south side of the Arman-Garreh saddle was terrible. This
could be avoided by taking the road down the valley as shown in dotted lines
on the map.
The Hillisat stream reminded me of Cashmere with its little terraces of
rice fields on either side, its fine plane trees and forest-clad mountains rising
steeply from the valley.
The Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. received us very hospitably and talked much of his friend
Mr, Mackenzie of Gray, Paul & Company. The Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. is a tall, powerful man
with a reddish face, hook nose, and restless brown eyes, about 64 years of age,
somewhat stout, yet capable of hard work. He had a restless sort of manner,
and, sitting on his carpet, puffed during the pauses of conversation, and twirled
a crooked stick as he perpetually repeated his phrases of welcome in our honour.
The subject Afghanistan is discussed. The Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. had just received a letter
from Khurasan announcing the victory of Ayub at Kandahar. Fortunately
Mr. Baring was able to tell of his defeat and flight. The Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran. had heard
that I was mapping the country, and he did not seem at all pleased at the no
tion. When I said it was being done in the cause of science he did not quite
understand, and evidently thought that I was seeing if a road could be made.
He showed some temper, and said that the road from Isfahan was his business
and nobody else^s, and it was by assuring him that 1 did not think a road
was practicable that he was appeased. However, he talked freely of his country,
describing its configuration, and of his people, of whom he evidently has a
mean opinion, and whom he rules with a rod of iron. I think the Ilkhani The paramount chief of certain tribes in south west Iran.
would like to open a route through the hills, provided that he had sole com
mand of it. He would only, of course, construct a very rough mule track and
a few caravanserais, and it is doubtful if on his death the whole traffic would
not be stopped, as the Bakhtians looked with evident dissatisfaction at our