‘GAZETTEER OF PERSIA VOL. I Comprising the Provinces of ASTARÁBÁD, SHÁHRUD-BÚSTAN, KHÚRÁSÁN, AND SÍSTÁN’ [‎216v] (439/722)

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very robust and athletic figure; but the Persian’s wardrobe does not thus
extend over him as the season advances.
“ The following is a general catalogue of the articles of their dress :
(1) the zir-jama—a pair of very wide trousers, either of red silk or blue
cotton, reaching below the ankle and fastened by a string, which passes
through the top and is tied before (2) the pirahan—a shirt, generally
of silk, which, going over the trousers, reaches a few inches below the hips,
and is fastened by two buttons over the top of the right shoulder. It goes
close round the lower part of the neck, where it is sometimes ornamented
bv a ribband or thin cord of silk. The opening of the shirt extends to the
bottom of the ribs. (3) the alkalik—a tight vest, made of chintz and
quilted with cotton, which ties at the side, and reaches as low as the thin
part of the calf of the leg. It has sleeves extending to the wrist, but open
from the elbow. (4) the kaba—which is a long vest descending to the
ankle, but fitting tight to the body, as far only as the hips; it then buttons
at the side. The sleeves go over those of the alkalik, and from the elbow
are closed by buttons only, that they may be opened thus far, for the pur
pose of ablution, when the namaz, or prayer, is said. There is another
species of kaba, called the bigali, which crosses over the breast, and fastens
all down the side by a range of buttons to the hip. This is generally made
of cloth, or of shawl or cotton quilted, and) as it is warmer, is most used in
winter. (5) the outer coat is always made of cloth, and is worn or thrown
off, according to the heat of the weather. Of this dress, there are many
sorts. The takmah, which has sleeves open from the elbow, but which are
yet so fashioned as to admit occasionally the lower part also of the arm :
these sleeves are generally permitted to hang behind. The coat itself is-
quite round, buttons before, and drops like a petticoat over the shawl that
goes round the waist. The oymeh, which is like the takmah, except
that from the hips downward it is open at the sides. The baranf, which
is a loose and ample robe with proportionally ample arms, generally made of
cloth and faced with velvet, and thrown negligently over the shoulders.
Over the kaba comes (6) the shal-i-kamar, which is the bandage round
the waist. This is made either of Cashmirian shawl, or of the common
shawl of Karman, or of English chintz, or of flowered muslin. The proper size
is about eight yards long and one broad. To this is fastened (by a string
neatly tied around it) a khanjar, or dagger, ornamented according to
the wealth of the possessor, from an enamelled pummel set in precious stones
to a common handle of bone and wmod. Besides the outer clothes, they
have also (7) coats trimmed with fur—such as the khatfbf, which is an
uncommonly rich dress, covering the whole of the body with fur over the
back and shoulders, fur at the cuffs, and fur inside. It is made of eloth-
of-gold and brocades, with large ornaments of goldlaee in front, and forms
altogether the most dignified among the habits in Persia. They have
also a short jacket (8) called the khurdf, which fits close to the body, but
with loose flaps as low as the commencement of the swell of the thigh.
The warmest of their dresses is (9) a sheep-skin, with the fur inside and the
leather part outside. It is called, from its sudorific qualities, the hammam,
or bath; but it is more generally named the poshtin, or skin. It is an ugly
and unpleasant article. The better sheepskins come from Bukhara, and are
covered with the finest wool.
“ The headdress of every Persian, from the king to his lowest subject,
is composed of one substance, and consists of a black cap about one foot-