‘GAZETTEER OF PERSIA VOL. I Comprising the Provinces of ASTARÁBÁD, SHÁHRUD-BÚSTAN, KHÚRÁSÁN, AND SÍSTÁN’ [‎129v] (263/722)

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Shall, who was born within sight of the rocky barriers of the fortress, fully
recognized its importance and its true value, and put it to the only use to
which a position, however strong, enclosed by many miles of impracticable
mountainous country, and far distant from all main lines of communications
and centres of population, could ever profitably be put. According to local
traditions, he made it the repository of the plunder brought back by his
armies from Delhi ; and there are traces sufficient to prove his intention to
render it a habitable and permanent stronghold, and to show also his
thorough knowledge of its requirements. On the crest of the cliffs, walls
and watch-towers, wherever necessary to guard against surprise, were
repaired or built. A supply of pure water was provided for the garrison,
as is shown by the remains of a subterranean and secret watercourse, which
was constructed to bring a stream into the valley from a distant spring—a
fact in itself giving tolerably conclusive evidence of the unfitness of the
water of the Kalat stream. The remains of the buildings erected by Nadir
Shah show that he feared also the climate of the narrow valley; for all save
a curious red sandstone tower, a most interesting relic, are to be found on
one of the highest parts of the plateau on a bare waterless slope, which
could have had nothing to recommend it but the purity of its atmosphere.
The efforts of the conqueror were evidently directed towards the provi
sion of a secure stronghold for his descendants ; for he himself is said to
have had no intention to reside there—as in truth he had no need—and to
have visited the place only once, and for a few days after the completion of
the fine tower that bears his name.
After his death there appears to have been no struggle for the possession
of the fortress—a fact that goes far to disprove the legend of buried
treasure. It passed quietly into the hands of the present Khan's family,
Turks of the Jallayar tribe, who held it as feudatories of Persia, but who
were enabled by the strength of the position to maintain a large share of
independence. They were frequently in league with the Turkumans, and in
conjunction with them threatened more than once the safety.of the capital
of the province.
The last of these rebel feudatories was Yalangtush Khan, who gave much
trouble in the reign of Muhammad Shah, and was only reduced to submis
sion by a large force under the “ Salar," son of Asaf-ud-Daula, who, with
the aid of the chiefs of Kuchan and Daraghaz, succeeded in marching round
by the Atak and seizing the principal southern entrance.
Since that time a Persian force has always been maintained there; and
this measure, together with the deportation of the chief family to Mashhad,
and subsequent depopulation due to oppression and famine, has completely
broken the power of the hereditary chiefs, who may with safety be permitted
•—as the present chief has been—to return not only to their lands, but also
to the government of the district.
The maintenance of a royal garrison is, in fact, no longer necessary to
overawe the population, but it could not now safely be withdrawn ; for the
natural defenders of the fortress are so reduced in numbers as to be unequal
to its defence, and the occupation of so strong a position by the Turkumans
would be a severe blow to the security, not only of the rich villages in the
valleys of the southern slopes of the range, but of the town of Mashhad
itself. Its possession by Persia also alone enables her to maintain a foot
hold in the Atak, and to push forward her settlements even feebly as she
is now doing.