"بلاد فارس." [ظ‎‎٨] (٤٨/٢١)

8
connecting the Hindoo-Khoosh with the Caucasus. Kasvin is famous for its
Mesdied Diami, built by Haroun-al-ttaschid, the grave of Houssem and its
Mesdjed-i-Shah. To the north, at the foot of Mount Syala, are the ruins ot
the principal seat of the Assassins or Nabatheniens.
All round about Kasvin are field of vines legularly walled in. The road,
which is unique in Persia, is simply a width cleared of stones, and yet it is said
to have cost £640 a mile. It begins about 8 miles west of Kasvin, is unbridged,
is crossed by streams and irrigating channels and ends at leheran. The natural
surface is hard and it is good going both for horses and carriages. Reached the
first halt at 9-30 and the second at 12, and the last post before Teheran at 9 p m.
Here every one declared it would be impossible to reach Teheran before the
gates were closed, and as I had no intention of wandering about a, city in the
dark searching for my friends, I agreed to halt. The rooms were fairly clean,
and the food good. Beds with sheets, blankets and razais ; wash-stand, look
ing-glass, brush and comb, soap, tooth-brush, pens, ink and paper, and always a
mao-nifyino’ o*lass. The rest-houses along this line into Teheran are said to be
of the first class, because it is by this route all high officials from Europe
travel. The servant N asr-ullah very done up ; in fact it is a wonder he has done
so well.
3Ut October, Monday .—Started early for Teheran, and by 8 a.m w'as at
early breakfast with Wells and his wife just as a matter of course. Called on
Mr Nicolsop, who was officiating as British Minister; called on the Minister of
Science, and also on the Eirst Chamberlain. These officials were very friendly ;
their houses contained many rooms luxuriously furnished; many servants.
Refreshments consisted ‘first of pipes with tea. and then pipes with coffee.
Then saw Dr. Odling and visited the Telegraph offices. Out for a walk in the
evening, and not at all disinclined to enjoy the few days’ rest which the Doctor
recommends as necessary. He applied some strong iodine to my back, to count
eract the effects of the fall I had from my horse in Bokhara 16 days ago.
Transit as per Paper 7B, £7-10 0. Expenses £4-10-0. Tips £0-7-0.
1st November, ZWsday.—Called on Mr. and Mrs. Nicolson. Dr. Tholosan,
the Phvsician to the Shah, called on me, also the old Nawab of ikicot. Called
on Prince Dolgorouki, who desired his kindest remembrances to Lord Dufferin.
Called on Yahia Khan the Mouchir-ul-Dowlah, Ex-Minister for Foreign Adairs,
lately deprived of his post on Ayub Khan’s escape. His rooms were magnifi
cently furnished with Sevres China, real China, carpets, pictures, &c.; one room
was positively lined with silvered plate glass, covered with most elegant tracery
of flowers, &c., in plaster of Paris. Persian Art is decorative; all material is ob
tained locally and adapted to this purpose; stone, wood, plaster of Paris, cotton
for carpets, wool for felts, clay for pottery, &c. All decorations are done without
anv o'uide or pattern, and the workman follows his own inclinations. Domes,
windows or arches are the principal features of every structure. (See Photograph
7K.) Large dinner party at the Residency; about 30 people, members of the
different embassies. After dinner there was dancing, 4 or 5 gentlemen dancing
in turn with the same lady during one dance. At parting some of the foreigners
kissed the hand of the hostess—a very graceful and courteous compliment.
2nd November, Wednesday.—Busy writing letters. Prepared a memoran
dum on the Trans-Caspian Railway and gave it to Mr. Nicolson; he said he should
forward a copy to England and to the Viceroy. It is better that this should be
done, for I may lose my note-book, and a hundred and one things may happen
before I arrive in India.. Prince Dolgorouki called ; also the Colonel of
Russian Cossacks (Dimontovitch ?). Went for a walk along the rampaits,-
huge mounds of earth taken from a very deep ditch. Dined at Dr. Odling s,
and there met Dr. and Mrs. Torrens of the American Mission.
3rd November, Thursday .—Visited, the Telegraph offices ; preparing notes
for my route. Lunched with Captain Blumer of the Russian service, who is
engaged to drill the Persians as gunners and Cossacks. Visited the Mouchir s
garden and palace, and also a large mosque, “ Nassiri, that he is building to
the memory of his brother. The design is excellent and very bold, while the
construction seemed to be sound. If Persians can design and complete works
of this sort they are capable of still greater things. The entrance porticos aie