"دليل بلاد فارس، المجلد I ويشمل محافظات أستراباد، شاهرود-بوستان، خراسان، وسيستان" [ظ‎‎٢‎٢‎٥] (٧٢٢/٤٥٧)

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agreeable circumstances of a Persian feast. There is no rattle of plates
and kni ves-and-forks, no confusion of lacqueys, no drinking of healths,
no disturbances of carving—scarcely a word is spoken, and all are intent on
the business before them. Their feasts are soon over; and although it
appears difficult to collect such an immense number of dishes, and to take
them away a«-ain without much confusion and much time, yet all is so well
regulated that everything disappears as if by magic. _ The lacqueys bring
the dishes in long trays called ‘ khanchas/ which are discharged in order,
and which are again taken up and carried away with equal facility. When
the whole is cleaned, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and basins are brought
in and every one washes his hand and mouth. Until the water is presented,
it’is ridiculous enough to see the right hand of every person (which is
covered with the complicated fragments of all the dishes) placed m a certain
position over his left arm. There is a fashion even in this.
« Cities. Persia has in all ages been remarkable for the magnificence and
splendour" of its cities. Isfahan, which was for several centuries the capital
of this kingdom, though it has ceased to be the royal residence, is still the
m “ Tihrhn can as yet boast of no splendid edifices, except the palace of the
monarch. The munificence of Karim Khan ornamented Shiraz with a
bazar or market, equal, if not superior, to any at Isfahan. But Shiraz has
not many public buildings ; and as there are few gardens and no avenues
within its walls, its bare mud-terraced houses, when viewed at a distance,
give it more the appearance of a ruined than a flourishing city. The town
of Ramadan, once so famous under its ancient name of ‘ Ecbatana/ has few
beauties to attract the attention of the traveller. Many of the other
cities of Persia are as remarkable for the excellence of their buildings
as for the romantic beauty of their situation. Their site is usually upon
small rivers or streams, and surrounded with gardens. Almost all the
towns in Persia have a defence. This is generally a high mud wall, which
is flanked by turrets, and sometimes protected by a deep dry ditch and a
rude odaeis. In every city and town of Persia there are one or more public
caravansarais for the accommodation of travellers. These edifices, which
are also found at every stage on the principal roads of the kingdom, are
in general built of stone or brick. Their form is square, and the whole
of ^the interior is divided into separate apartments. Their walls, which are
very high, are usually defended by towers, that they may be secure
against” the attack of robbers. The houses in Persia are almost all built
of mud, and have terraced roofs. Their inner apartments are usually
better than their external appearance indicates. The smaller villages are
in general very rudely constructed ; and the common huts have often,
instead of a terrace, a dome roof, that is made to avoid the necessity of
using wood, which, as has been before stated, is throughout this couutiy 3
very scarce article. _e r> •
“ The more civilised and peaceable classes of the inhabitants of Persia,
who dwell in cities, towns, and villages, have made considerable progress,
in both the useful and fine arts; but it appears from their productions
and the accounts we have received from European travellers, that they
were as far advanced several centuries ago as they are at this moment.
This is not so much to be attributed to the internal distractions of their
country, or to their prejudices, as to the form and character of their
government. Men, who live under a rude despotism, can only be happy