"دليل بلاد فارس، المجلد I ويشمل محافظات أستراباد، شاهرود-بوستان، خراسان، وسيستان" [ظ‎‎١‎٧‎٣] (٧٢٢/٣٥١)

300
SMh Husain’s reign, A.H. 1085. The verses which occupy the centre
of this aivan tells us that Nadir Shah had it gilded in A.H. 1145
the gold which he took from India and from the Kaisar and the Khokan
The eastern and western aivans of Sahan only bear sacred inscriptions
That on the southern aivan states that this dome was made by order of
Shah Abbas II. in A.H. 1059 ; and, finally, the lower part of all these
aivans were ornamented in A.H. 1262 with enamelled tiles copying
different chapters of the Kuran. To the south of the Imam’s mausoleum
is a large and handsome mosque, built by the favourite wife of Shah Kukh
Grudar Shah Agha. Above the principal fa 9 ade of the temple you read
that it was built in the reign of Shah Rukh, A.H. 821. On the eastern
side of the front wall is a ‘ hadis ’ from the Prophet “ The believer
in a mosque is like a fish in water.” At the same height from this ground
on the western side of the same wall is another ‘ hadfs’: “ The unbeliever
in a mosque is like an eagle in a cage.” The southern side of this mosque
was rebuilt by Shah Husain, A.H. 1087. The verses at the foot of this
mosque stated that an earthquake had ‘wounded’ this mosque, and
that the Shah had ordered it to be ‘healed’ in A.H. 1088. The
difference of the dates on the top and bottom of the same walls should not
surprise us ; for the beauty and variety of the ornamentation show clearly
that it could not have been completed in a year.
The houses in the town, generally speaking, are not large. They rarely
have more than two courts; and as the level of the street is nearly always
higher than those of the interior courts, the entrances from the houses
are long, sombre, sloping passages. Mashhad lies on a plain, and the
interior of the town has no elevation, except a rising in the north-eastern
quarter, which is probably artificial. The nearest rising ground is the
range of quartz hills about 2 miles west-south-west from the town. Thin
veins of gold have often been found in these rocks, which they have
olten tried to work; but the expense of the working has always been
more than the profit. In the sacred quarter nearly all the streets are paved;
in the other, this is seldom the case. There are guardhouses all through
the town, particularly in the sacred quarter. Two regiments of regular
troops are frequently quartered here. Azarbaijanis are usually sent, as
they never fraternise with the Khurasanis. To the north of the sacred
quaiter is a large cemetery, called ‘ Katal-Gah.’ Its ground, which is sold
for the benefit of the mosque, is one of the principal revenues of the estab
lishment; for a very large number of corpses are brought annually to
Mashhad from all countries in which the Shiite religion is practised.
They are not allowed by the clergy to make the place of burial with a
solid monument; for, as soon as the inclemency of the weather or time
destroys the clay structure which takes the place of a regular mausoleum,
the earth is considered virgin, and, on funds being presented, they bury
the first comer without troubling themselves about the predecessor’s
remains. The interior of the town is not rich in gardens. In the centre
there is only one of any note—that of Khan Naib. To the north of the
citadel^there are also a few, the largest of which is that of the “Imam
Jumi. But each interior court is shaded by trees, and the suburbs, parti
cularly those to the north of the citadel, are very well wooded.
The water is bad, and in the summer during the great heat is full of
little worms. But ice is not dear ; and the fruit, which is excellent, is very
plentiful and cheap.