"بلاد فارس." [ظ‎‎١‎٣] (٤٨/٣١)

18
giving some life to the scenery. Mr. Wittingback was out on his half-yearly
inspection; he has to walk along the whole of his charge and examine every
insulator, &c. Lengths of the line are sometimes thrown down by the snow
and storms in winter, and for days communication is interrupted.
19th November, Saturday. —Started about 7 and went straight to Naksh-i-
Rustum, the tombs of the Kings, in a high sandstone hill. The face is
sculptured with various scenes, notably Valerian as a suppliant to Shapur. Rode
across the plain to Poozeh chapparkhana. Left my kit; had breakfast; got
another nag and went off with the guide to Persepolis and Naksh-i-Rajjub:
this time the man took his gun and sword, because he said the looties were
about. We saw nothing of them, and it says a good deal for the Shah that his
dominions are so safe for any one who chooses to visit them. At Persepolis
there are the ruins, the palaces of Darius and of Xerxes, the tombs in the hills,
the bulls, the grand steps, &c. Alexander stayed 1 months in winter at Perse
polis to give his troops time to recruit* and it was after a feast where a great
deal too much winef seems to have been indulged in, that Thais, a native of
Attica, and mistress to Ptolemy, afterwards King of Egypt, suggested burning
the palace of Xerxes. Alexander himself is said to have led the riot. The whole
place is now tumbled about, but there is enough to occupy and interest one for
at least two days. Many of the carvings are finely executed, and the hard black
stone carries a polish like marble.
20th November, Sunday. —Rode to Pul-i-Khan (see Sketch of the bridge
No. 25) crossing the Kor river or Bundamir stream, Bundamir village being
some miles down. Into Zergoond, about 3 miles of a paved causeway across
the open plain, much damaged. Saw^Brahminy duck, sand-grouse, wild-duck,
crane, plover, and pigeon on the Persepolis plain. From Zergoond 15 out
of the 20 miles is up and down the narrow spurs of hills by a very rough and
stony road. Then the country opens, and all of a sudden you see Shiraz
between the hills, a lovely peep through the dark framing of a narrow gorge ;
tank house on one side, walled road on the other. Shiraz with its cypresses,
gardens, town and mosque in the plain below. Shiraz is below hills and in a
highly cultivated and well-watered plain. Three blue domes conspicuous.
Bazar built by Karim Khan 150 years ago in form of a cross. Mosque of Shah
Chiragh prominent, also Masjid-i-Nan and Syed Hussein’s; the tile work
especially good. Mr. Preece living in a garden, the property of Mir Hassan
Ali Khan. Slept and dined there. Met Dr. Scully.
Transit as per Paper No. 7B, £17-0-0, expenses £7-12-0.
21st November, Monday. —Prom Shiraz the journey has to be continued
with mules, as the country is so steep and rough (see Section Paper No. 7 C).
Mules late; left at 9 and reached Khan-i-Zinian at 4 ; 8 farsakhs, 7 hours ; 3
mules; road very up and down and very stony.
22nd November, Tuesday. —Left at ^ past 7 and made Dasht-i-Arjun
(plain of wild olives) at 11 ; roughish road ; hills covered with scrub jungle and
ice in the nullahs. Took breakfast with Sergeant Jeffreys and his wife. Dasht-
i-Arjun seems to have no outlet, and it is a wonderfully large basin surrounded
by hills ; those on the east side, though the stratification is horizontal, are cut
by storms and weather into upright pillars giving a peculiar effect. It is easy
to fancy that this plain must be a perfect carpet of wild flowers in the spring.
A lion had been killing horses and mules for the last seven days at Pirizan (Old
Woman’s Pass) just at the spot where St. John was attacked by a lion. Jeffreys
made me take my revolver from the valise. Tofanchis were out on the
hills firing, and a spot on the road was pointed out where some governor had
been lately murdered. The road up to the khotal is very steep and very rough,
quite impassable for guns, and the road down to Mian Khotal caravanserai
is equally bad, through quite a forest of trees shedding the leaf. The
caravanserai at Mian Khotal is prettily placed on a knoll amidst trees. Made
a sketch of the route to-day from Pirizan looking across Khotal Doktar to the
hills beyond the Kazran plain. (See Sketch No. 26).
* Alexander led 12o,000 foot and 15,000 horse to India, and only brought back about one-fourth of the
number.
t At one supper Promachus drank four measures of wine (about 14 quarts), and the rest of the guests drank
to such a degree that 41 of them died from the effects.