"بلاد فارس." [و‎‎١‎٣] (٤٨/٣٠)

17
also gave me his picture, and wrote his name thereon (see Photograph No.
7 U.) ; he also presented me with a drinking-bottle of his own, and said he
would send another from the Arsenal as a pattern for our troops ; also two
cloaks to make a tent.
The Editor of the Persian paper published at Ispahan was present helping
to receive us; ordered the newspaper, 8 tomans a year including postage.
In the evening when the water-bottle and the cloaks arrived, the hearer, a
junior officer, was duly received, given a kalyan to smoke, and sent away with
a present of 2 tomans, Persian fashion, which requires that the tip shall he
about equivalent to the things received.
At Ispahan 32fb of ice delivered daily for five months for 10 krans.
Ispahan is the ancient capital, and Julfa is its Armenian suburb. The
Zamdarud flows by the city and is crossed by two or more bridges, one with
very high parapet walls, and the other acting as a dam with regulating sluices
(see Photograph No. 7Y). Chahar Bagh might once have been a sight, but now
all is neglected. The Maidan-i-Shah 300 X 180 yards enclosed by barracks.
The trembling minarets of Ispahan I did not see; apparently there are two
minarets, one on each side of a dome. On striking one, the other oscillates,
while the masonry between the two remains at rest. Near Ispahan is the
range of Zaida Koh mountains, 16,000 feet.
14th November, Monday. —Left [Ispahan, or rather Julfa, and Gifford met
me on the road near Kumeshah. Saw Mrs. Gifford and her little girl. Passed
a most comfortable night under their roof.
15th November, Tuesday. —Load through Yezd-i-Khast, a curious village
perched on an isolated rock in a deep ravine. Slept at Shulgistan.
16th November, Wednesday. —On to Abadeh. Most wretched ponies.
Sergeant Glover met me and gave me breakfast. Number of Mahomedans
(Russian subjects) in Kashan, also at Ispahan. Russian influence prevails
that is, if aiiy merchant or other person wants anything done, he applies
to Russian Consul, &c. Lately a Russian officer (Captain Blumer) and his two
Cossacks, all in uniform, passed through Abadeh on a trip to Bushire, making
full enquiries as to routes for guns, &c, Glover was in the 37th Company,
Royal Engineers in 1865 when I was attached to it at Chatham. He is
married to an Armenian, and his boys (two) are going to the depot at Chatham.
St. John’s influence when in Persia very great. Saw the new moon; such a
beauty. Got on to Surmek, cooked dinner and turned in.
17th November, Thursday. —On through Khankhoreh to Dehbid. Ser
geant Blake is here with his wife, and although it is a place in the desert, they
are as happy as possible. Sa\r four cranes (gaz) and tw^o ducks. I he robber
Reza Khan, a Kashgari, is out on the Murghab Pass, looting ; his followers
released him from prison in Shiraz, and they are now plundering right and left.
The Governor has just sent a message to Reza Khan saying that if he will go
off to his village, nothing more will be said; the sequel to this being that
eventually he wall be enticed into Ispahan or Shiraz and summarily disposed
of (see Photograph No. 24).
18th November, Friday. —Left Dehbid at 7-20 a.m. and got into Murghab at
12-20, 5 hours; very cold indeed, ice on every strean. Thirty miles at least on one
nag, and of this 12 miles over about the worst road in Persia. It is at this
pass Reza Khan plies his trade. Saw some soldiers on watch. After Murghab
at about 1 farsakh is Cyrus' tomb.* Saw the first piece of quartz here ; the
scenery now r alters for the better, and the route runs through a bold gorge
with running water, trees, &c., fording the same stream twice.
Into Kawamabad in 4 hours. Post just going out; two men on horseback,
and two nags with post bags, trotting in front; had to ride their old and tired
horses. Went on from Kawamabad and met Mr. Wittingback in the pass; a
cup of tea in his tent and slept at his bungalow at Sivand. The route along
the pass from Murghab is very nice with the river Polvar flowing by, and
* The tomb had a Persian inscription and Alexander ordered it to be inscribed also in Greek. It was as
follows^ ^ whosoever thou art and whensoever thou comest (for come I know thou wilt) I am Cyrus the
founder of the Persian Empire. Envy me not the little earth that covers my body.” (Plutarch).