"بلاد فارس." [ظ‎‎٩] (٤٨/٢٣)

least 10 °, and that rain now lasts longer into the spring and showers are more
frequent in early summer.
Teheran (100,000) may be called a city of unknown enclosures. There is
of course the palace, the arsenal, the barracks, &c., &c., but for the most part the
dwellings are secluded and shut off, each with its gardens and buildings within
high mud walls. The town is supplied with water brought in by some 30 or
40 underground canals from the snow-fed springs at the foot of the hills. These
canals or kanats are works requiring great industry; some at their source are
as deep as ISO' and the water is conducted in a tunnel under ground for miles
till it comes to the surface. Shafts for ventilation and for the excavated mate
rial occur at about 100 feet.
The gardens are, to a great extent, private property, and although they are
beautifully kept, with fountains and running water in abundance, they are too
precise in their long avenues of plane-trees, and singularly devoid of bird or in
sect life. (See Photograph 7 M.) The general places of resort are, of course, the
bazar and the large squares, but here again at certain hours of the day one
might be in a city of the dead. The year in Persia begins with the vernal
equinox and the day is counted from sunset to sunset.
I did not see the Shah—a visit to the Palace is a matter requiring a
little time and arrangement. The Sovereign is constantly going off on shooting
expeditions^ or visiting his country seats, a very natural process, when it is re
membered that there are representatives, ministers and ambassadors from many
nations located at his capital, viz.^ the Russian and English legations, the
Turkish Embassy, and the French, Austrian, United State&and German lega
tions established in the order as given. The Shah is spoken of as a benevolent
ruler, and one who, in a quiet way, has done much to improve his charge.
He builds caravanserais, improves the water-supply, gives freely in charity, and
has allowed the introduction of gas, cafes and a hotel into Teheran. He
keeps a watch over his ministers, for occasionally he deposes one; and if he
does not devote large sums to public works, it is more from the knowledge
that the money wdll not be used for the purpose, than from the wish to
retain it. Being an oriental, it is but natural that he should wish strangers
to leave him alone; but however much England may pay consideration to
this point, and earn a more genuine confidence, it will not prevent Russia from
pressing claims and securing tangible advantages. That Russia has an ex
traordinary influence in Persia has been generally acknowledged, and very
lately the Russian authorities have, under some treaty, literally forced the
Shah, against his will, to commence the construction of a road within his own
territory from Meshed to Kubashan (Kuchan) to meet the section that they
are making to that point from Askabad beyond the province.
The Palace is separated from the arsenal by the Maidan-i-topkhana,
(see Photograph 7 N) which may be called the centre and principal square in the
City. Near here is another maidan where troops are drilled daily, except Fri
days, and where the military bands occasionally play. The principal streets are
fairly w^ell kept, water is laid on, and in addition every house nearly has reservoirs
under ground for so many days* supply. Drains also exist; they run down the
centre of the roads, and are constantly under repair. Dogs abound, and are
nearly as numerous as at Constantinople. The bazar is away to the south of
the Maidan-i-topkhana, a perfect maze of vaulted labyrinths, where caste or
trade by families palpably exists, in the fact of each separate industry being
localised in its particular range.
Near Teheran is the ancient city of Rhages, Rhei, or Rhe (Tobit I, 14) the
capital of the Arsacidm or Parthian dynasty; the sun-dried bricks here are
supposed to be over 1,200 years old.
The great place of pilgrimage is to the Tomb of Shah Abdul Azeem, about
6 miles from Teheran, and to which place some 300,000 pilgrims t annually
resort. It is to this place that the much talked of railway is to go, but the
material is, I believe, lying abandoned on the shore of the Caspian and the con
cessionaire is in Paris.
* The royal train consists sometimes of as many as 20,000, of whom 6,000 are soldiers,
f The pilgrims to Mecca are said not to exceed 90,000 annually.