"بلاد فارس." [و‎‎٦] (٤٨/١٦)

3
dirty streets, and then a bazar with open shops and projecting roofs, not unlike
a scene at Mangalore. Drove to the Eussian Consulate on a kind invitation from
Madame Ylassow. She is English, having been married three times, once to
Captain FitzRoy, by whom she has two sons (in Australia), and one daughter
(now living here), secondly to a Russian, and thirdly to Monsieur Vlassow.
Mr. and Mrs. Nelson (Telegraph) and their children, and Miss Pratt (sister of
the American Minister), were also the guests of Monsieur Ylassow. They had
left Baku before me by the regular mail boat, had a dreadful passage, landed
at Enselli, spent the night on the floor of the Shah’s garden tower, missed the
launch, and finally arrived after me at Resht late in the afternoon. Monsieur
Ylassow is a Cossack of the Don, and one of a very few of that race who have
entered the diplomatic service.
The payment in Russian currency ceased on board the steamer, and the
use of Persian money began on landing.
As regards Persian currency. First of all in copper there are—
■| Shahi pieces called ‘ pool 5 ... ft" diameter.
and in silver-—
Irregularly shaped dubs
and also—
1 kran piece diameter
9 1 a"
a >J >) -*-8 55
. 1 '
I 3 "
-MG
= i kran ) .,
j- old coinage.
: : }
new coinage.
These last are rather pretty, having the lion on one side with a drawn
sword erect in the right paw extended, and a woman’s face illumined as the sun
orient over his back, all enclosed in a wreath. On the reverse there are Persian
characters in a wreath. The computation is—
1 pool = shahi . . . . = -181 of a penny.
40 half shahis = 20 shahis = 1 kran = = 7 ' 2 f pence.
10 krans = 1 toman = say 6 s 6d.
Therefore, roughly, in one’s dealings as an Indian traveller, the single kran
( 7 J^.) may be treated as an 8 -anna piece (S^d.) and the 2 -kran piece (Is. 2^d.)
as a rupee (Is.-od), but with a tendency to be more liberal with the double
kran pieces than with rupees.
27th October, Thursday. —The day, although it poured with rain, was spent
in great contentment, Monsieur Vlassow kindly arranging for my journey ; he
engaged a Persian, by name Nasr-ullah, to go with me to Bushire : gave the
man 50 krans and took receipt. I am also to pay at Bushire for his return
1 kran per farsakh for a horse, and \ kran a day for food, so that the charge for
this servant will be 50 for himself, 260 for the horse, 22 for food, or 332 krans
in all, an equivalent to £10 for which the man will have to leave his home
for two months, and traverse nearly 2,000 miles on horseback. A native sad
dle and bridle was purchased for 25 krans for the servant, and these were to
be presented to him at Bushire if he behaved himself. A telegram was sent
in Persian to Major Wells at Teheran, acquainting him with my movements
for 4^ krans. The Padoroshna or Post Office permit was obtained, the charge
being 1 kran, and 3 horses were ordered to be ready to start from the Consulate
at 4 the following morning.
The preliminaries being so far complete, there only remained the Mirza
Having consulted the Consul, 20 krans was thought ample as remuneration for
his services. The Mirza came to call, smoked his cigarette, and when I pro
posed to make him a small present for his trouble, he replied that he only
wanted his actual expenses which amounted to 45 krans. 1 did not laugh, but
wished him good-bye, saying the money would be ready for him in a short time.
He never returned, so the amount was left with the Consul. From experience
No. 2 I do not think a converted Persian is either fish, flesh, fowl or good salt
herring.
In the idea that these notes may be of some practical use, and as progress
will now be made on horseback, it may be advisable here to insert a few hints
regarding the personnel of travel, baggage, &c.
A 2