"بلاد فارس." [ظ‎‎٥] (٤٨/١٥)

2
two mates were Russian. There was a fairly large saloon for the better class of
natives and their wives, with a small cabin beyond which was allotted to me,
and beyond this again was the captain’s crib in which he kept his money, &c.
There was a party of Persian gentlemen returning from a pilgrimage and about
60 deck passengers. My fare was fixed at 9 roubles on account of the cabin
(the ordinary fare by mail steamer is 12 roubles). Deck passengers paid 3
roubles each from Baku to Enselli, and all found their own food. Luggage
was 15 kopecks a pood. The steamer carried sugar, glass, coals, iron, &c. The
barometer at sea south of Baku stood at 786‘2 = BO' QdS. The sea was very
rough at night, the steamer rolling a good deal. Anchored and rolled more.
25th October, Tuesday .—The crew began to wake up about 7, and after a
lazy start at 8 anchored again at 9^ a.m. off Lenkoran. Russia numbers about
120,000 Persians in the Caucasus as her subjects, chiefly in these districts
on the Caspian, and in Erivan, which was annexed in 1828. The scenery,
as far as one could see on a dull morning, was not unlike that near Tanna,
with wooded foreshore, and wooded hills behind. Some isolated Mils mid
way, thatched houses and a few red zinc roofs. One native steamer and a
few native boats in the roadstead. No business was done at Lenkoran, and after
a fashionable delay a start was made for Astara, whence, after another expendi
ture of time, the steamer set out at 8 p.m. for Enselli. The cultivation of
Indian rice is steadily pursued in the low marshy lands in this vicinity.
26th October, WednesdayA.YYivzdL at Enselli at 7 a.m., and anchored in
an open roadstead about a mile from the shore with the mail steamer to the north
and outside us. Shortly the boats (not unlike the Madras surf boats, but
smaller) came off for passengers, but no one appeared inclined to move. Fortu
nately the sea was fairly calm and there was no “ beaching.” One or two “surfy *’
waves seemed as if they would envelope us, but these passed, and after a short
turn through the neck of an inlet a landing was made at a small quay in the
bazar. I gave the boatman 2 double kran-pieces (2s. 6 tf.). “ This will not do. I
want 10 tomans” (say £3). Others wanted nearly as much for touching my
baggage. Presently, by strange good luck, a Persian asked my name and said
that 0 a Mirza had been enquiring for me for some days, and that he was probably
now here. The Mirza (educated person) w T as found about to return comfort
ably by the steam launch to Piri Bazar, as he had satisfied himself I was not a
passenger by the mail which had arrived the previous evening, nor had he made
any enquiry about the steamer which had arrived that morning. The kit with
out any examination by custonlS , officials was transferred to the launch; the
boatman accepted an additional 2-kran piece, and at 9 a.m,, under charge of
a Persian, the little launch started on its trip across the lake (local Dead Sea)
towards Piri Bazar. My first impression of the Persians, as represented by
these boatmen, was not favourable.
Tickets £1-1-0. Tips £0-11-0.
At Enselli the chief object is a garden tower 5 storeys high, built when the
Shah made his first trip to Europe. The bazar is good, but small; there is the
Telegraph office and a Russian fish-curing establishment. Sitting on the side of
the boat I chatted with the young Mirza; he is one of Dr. Bruce’s converts,
by name Joseph, and earns a living by teaching French in Resht. He had,
on a request from Teheran, been asked by the Postmaster of Resht to meet
me, and this ivas his third visit for the purpose. The launch carried about
15 passengers, and the trip across the smooth water for 10 miles till lO^- a.m.
was very pleasant. At the western side of the lake a change is made into
tow boats which carry the traffic up the inlet to Piri bazar.
The stillness of the air, the grateful shade, the easy gliding through the
water—all embodied the poetry of motion, and one felt rather sorry, when about
noon there was another change to the racket and the avarice of the horse-
keepers. The fare for the steam and boat trip of 15 miles was 2 krans (1st
Class.) Mirza Joseph was travelling without a ticket, so I bought him one
for 1 kran.
The road to Resht is under repair,—part is cobbled and part is untouched.
The kit was given to a syce who put it on his horse, and rode off with it. It
was raining, and there was nothing much to be seen—a few houses and gardens,